Monday, February 27, 2012

Belfast, Northern Ireland & The Troubles

After a 'much too short' journey across the Firth of Clyde, we arrived in Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK.  Remember that Northern Ireland, which includes Belfast, the largest city as well as some smaller ones, is part of the United Kingdom.

Because these students had not been born during the time of 'the struggles' and because most had not yet studied British history at all, we took some time for a bit of historical review before our city tour of Belfast.

We actually arrived in the evening, checked into our hotel, had dinner, and then took an evening walk. The light was pretty low, so nighttime photos of much quality were few and far between. It was also very cold and damp which meant that hands stayed in the pockets and not on the shutter!

Enjoy the quick tour of Belfast with us. Future posts will address the Murals, Belfast Cathedral, Parliament, and the Titanic.

Off to the hotel on our new touring bus. This one has no tables, but it surely is luxurious! We could also pull the drapes and block out the late afternoon sun.

Belfast had some of the most unusual sculptures, mostly very modern in style. They all have nicknames as well, so one statue can be known by many names. This one is actually the "Beacon of Hope" but is generally called "The Thing with the Ring." Made of steel and bronze, the ring is one of thanksgiving and the base is a globe which represents a universal theme of peace and harmony. (She is also called the Harmony Sculpture) She is actually a light silver color and is stunning when lit at night.

We found the people in Belfast to be quite friendly but were cautioned not to discuss religion. The tensions from the past still are like fresh wounds today, even though most of the population has 'moved on' to work in unity. "The Troubles" were not specifically about religion, but fear of discrimination if things changed seemed to be a huge factor in the strife. It was an interesting struggle, not easy to understand, but it was neat to learn that President Clinton had a lot to do with bringing the conflict to an end. Today Belfast is a calm and peaceful place and tourism is an important part of their economy.

Belfast at night. Overall it was a clean city. Most of what was old had been bombed over the years and much of the area had been replaced with new construction...new since the 1990's. Prior to that most of the building took place during the Edwardian and Victorian eras. Did I mention that the history of Belfast dates way on back to the BRONZE age....think, Vikings and such.  During the Victorian times, Belfast was a huge economic center with shipbuilding, rope manufacturing, and linen production being the main industries. 

By the time we hit our rooms in the evening, we were ready for some real sleep! Our hotel was a Premier Inn and we were so surprised to see from the internet connection that it was a 'Comfort Inn.' It was very modern, unlike the Edinburgh hotel, and had been recently refurbished. A double room turns into a quad like this! Gotta love the European way of travel!


This is the City Hall, both during the night and the day. It is the central piece of architecture in Belfast and everything seems to radiate outward around it. Donegall Square is the official name of the area. 

Add caption

This building is being protected and has a 'regeneration' plan. Belfast at one time was a huge economic powerhouse which generated great wealth, so the buildings of course represented that. During the time of "The Troubles' (1960's through the mid 1990's) so much damage was done to the buildings that they were taken down and replaced with that horrible, cheap way of building that was so famous in the 1970's and 80's. That's right...in Europe as well as in America, we had that 'throw it up fast and cheap' architecture that we still deal with today. After "The Troubles" had passed, the people began to realize how much of their great heritage had been lost and they created the Belfast Buildings Preservation Trust to handle the 'refurbishment' and 'regeneration' of many of these old buildings. 


Queen's University actually dates back to 1810 and is currently known as QUB or Queen's University Belfast. We enjoyed seeing the university students running to and from classes, not unlike we see in our own college towns. Queen's is a major research university. It was started as a way to offer higher education to Catholics and Presbyterians, and later to Anglicans. It has quite an interesting history, so click on the link if that kind of stuff interests you.

I love it when students have fun with photos. It helps me remember something about the building too! This is...you guessed it...Belfast Grand Opera House. (Do you see the Phantom?)  You just have to love the arts! The Europa Hotel is across the street (more about that later) and it was extensively bombed in during the Troubles, so of course, the residual effect from those bombings caused damage to the Opera House. It kept operating all the while, however and has now been extensively renovated. It dates back to 1895.
Our bus was parked on the corner and some of the kids received an invitation to step inside and enjoy some of the show while waiting on the bus to return. HOW SPECIAL!

Peace Lines ~ Peace Walls were some of the more interesting things we saw throughout the city. The saying goes that 'good fences make good neighbors' and I suppose that is what they were striving for. Though many of the fences still remain almost twenty years after the end of "The Troubles" there are openings in many places so that you can get in and out of all parts of Belfast. The separation barriers were placed between Catholic(mostly nationalist/Irish) and Protestant(mostly union/British) neighborhoods. This is such a hard concept for us to imagine.  As of 2012 there is now some conversation about removing walls, but it may be one of those things that will take place with 'the next generation.' All in all, it was interesting to see what can happen when people have differences and just can not seem to communicate with one another. 

The famous Europa Hotel does not look like a bombed out mess, but only the lower part of the facade remains today. It is known as the 'most bombed hotel in the world' for having survived 28 bombings during "The Troubles."  Short history for those who are interested... it opened in 1971 on the site of the old Great Northern Railway station. Reporters, dignitaries, etc stayed here when reporting on the trouble in Belfast, so it was a great target for bombings, mostly by the IRA. President Clinton stayed here in 1993. Later that year it was bombed so badly that it was closed and sold for around 4 million pounds (not much money at that time)....the hotel was purchased by the Hastings Hotels Group who spent 8 million pounds on the restoration and reopened it in 1994. In late 1995, President Clinton (and entourage) stayed in 110 rooms and today the suite used by the Clintons is called the Clinton Suite. I am ok with that because he had a lot to do with settling things down over there. :)
In 2008 they updated again and added that 12 story tower and many renovations, keeping only the original facade. I love that they found the old buildings wonderful enough to save...and maybe it can serve to take the people back to a time before The Troubles. 

The kids are helping me to remember the story of this hotel. There were not really any bombs, but I LOVE their improvisations!

Recognize this, anyone? And we thought this was only going on in America. NO....worldwide.

The positive is that they do have freedom of expression - whether you agree with their approach or not.  The kids had different views, but I am not certain that they really have a full understanding of what is going on and why. You kind of have to reach a point where you are paying all of your own bills to totally understand the economics of it all. But....that is another story for another day.
For now
Something lighthearted after all of this heavy thinking

SHOPPING

This will likely not make any sense to anyone except Matt and his friends! I think it was a shop or a business of some sort. I saw several photos but never saw the real thing. 

This looks vaguely like Marks and Spencer which is also called M&S...a store I came to love when in London. We had some serious shoppers on this trip. Thank goodness our numbers were small, or we could never have handled all of the very large suitcases! Though I never promise shopping on these adventures, we always have ladies who make the most of the little free time we give them!


Cheers for POUNDWORLD which is the UK version of Dollar Tree. Everything is ONE POUND! It was a GREAT find!  (Now, that pound was actually $1.60 USDollars)

Yes they invested will in the Northern Ireland economy!

Disney is worldwide too! Disney Store Belfast has fun online ads too!
The kids played dress up in this store.

Government Health Care. Need I say more?

This was fun. Look way into the background and you will see a movie crew. This young man was the 'guard' who was keeping people from walking down the street in front of the cameras. Of course I thought of TMA Alum, Hans Hernke when we saw this action, but I also love it when the kids interact with the locals, and they generally do because they love the accents. (Though no one things they have one, they think WE have one)
I think the movie short was called "About A Man' and it might have been about homelessness. 

Incredible Irish Linens could be found in this store. Lovely!

These are our GPS Girls. They were the youngest in the group, yet they never got lost, always showed up on time, and could go on a short adventure and get back without causing us worry or stress. Your attention to detail, girls, even made 'darts' tolerable !

I am not sure who shot this but my guess is that it was somewhere in the area where we spotted the Occupy tents. Celtic Cross...the Christian Cross with the Circle. I will explain that later. 

Thanks again ladies for the improv! I mean, this is a school trip, so this is quite an appropriate photo....and the end of our brief tour of Belfast. Though the driving tour with the guide was so informational, I think we would all agree that the best way to see any city is to get out and walk it. For future tours, I will include a lot more walking. I recall walking all over London, in the freezing snow and ice, and though I will never forget how frozen feet feel, I could go back to London today and find my way around.
Maybe it is the muscle memory at work!

Today's thought should probably be to communicate clearly. Most people don't mind if you have a different point of view as long as you are willing to listen to their point of view if you want to be heard. I have to remember this with politics all the time! It is easy to truly believe what you believe, but often hard to have somebody bombarding you with 'the other side'....when in reality....they can't see your way any more than you can see theirs. In times like that...just agree to disagree and don't let it ruin a friendship.
This old lady has learned that their are relatively few things in life that are worth the loss of a friendship. While it is true that some friendships might not be the best thing for you if poor life choices are being made, it is also a wise thing to help your brother but be sure that you are working from a firm foundation in your own life.  (Otherwise, like a lot of the buildings we saw, you can be seriously damaged, even if you are not totally destroyed...but total destruction can happen too without a strong foundation.)

Jesus is that kind of friend.
Closer than a brother.
There through thick and thin.
Loves you even if you have trouble loving yourself.
He really has it all....and He gave his own life so that we can live with him eternally.
The Northern Ireland Troubles lasted about two decades.....but eternity.........
.just think about it...eternity with no troubles.
Thank you, Jesus!
John 3:16

The Coast, the Craig, and the Ferry

Waking up bright and early, with suitcases packed, we loaded up after breakfast and made our way to the coast. We bit a fond farewell to Edinburgh, all the while, longing to stay a few more days. More walking tours would have been wonderful for there is no better way to meet a new city than to walk it.

We passed back through Renfewshire and Glasgow as we made our way south and west toward Stranraer.

We followed the coast highway for quite a while and enjoyed the scenery, which was again, unbelievably green. One of the funniest things we saw was pastureland right next to the seashore....with sheep or cows in the pasture. It looked as odd to me as Santa Monica Beach with the mountains in the distance. When Floridians think of the seashore..we think of white sand and dunes.....and lots of hotels and condos.

Does it give you a sense that this photo is flipped, when you see the car coming toward you on the right? That is a weird feeling when you are in the front of the bus!

Stretch Break! We got to walk down to the shore, which was very mucky and grassy next to the road, and rocky with dirt (as opposed to sand)...next to the water. Look out into the distance and locate the thing that looks like a mountain or hill. It is called Alisa Craig and is pronounced Ale-sa.  It is essentially a mound of blue granite and is uninhabited today except for the gannets and puffins (birds) that call it home.  They also call it the plug of an extinct volcano. The body of water is called the Firth of Clyde....which is again, like a bay. The River Clyde dumps into it in Belfast.

One of the rocks on the seashore, with Alisa Craig in the distance on your left.

The stretch breaks were always welcome. At this point we were still wondering what our ferry would be like. Expecting the Staten Island Ferry, we at least were thankful that the waters did not look too rough for our 90 minute journey across the sea.

What a welcome relief it was to see that this was our ferry. The kids called it a cruise ship, but it is not that big. It does transport cars though!

Bags unloaded, farewell Davey, and off to the check in line. Terry picked up our tickets and just handed them out. Once inside the terminal, we played....who has my ticket....and got ourselves unswitched.....then security, and off to the gangway.

Before we split up to discover what this ferry ship had to offer, we snapped a group photo in the first 'lounge' we found. We thought the place might be sold out, but it was not. We found out that this particular had just undergone 'refurbishment' and was only put back into service in December. No wonder everything looked so 'disney-esque.'

Top deck  - Does this look like our own Leo DiCaprio?
He seems so comfortable on a cruise ship.

On deck with the sun setting in the distance. We also spotted a lighthouse out there.

Photo is a bit blurry, but this was something interactive like Dance Revolution. 

Clever photo! The cheerleaders were always stretching, or jumping.....or cheering! It turned out to be good practice for taking FIRST at State when they returned home. 

It is so frustrating when photos un-rotate. This is one of the several food courts.

Top deck again, and we are trusting that this is NOT like the Titanic.

What can we say...FREE WI-FI.....hopefully everyone touched base with home. As you can see out the window, the sea (Firth of Clyde -- or the Bay) was a little choppy. A few took Dramamine....and were out cold on the floor or couches.

These girls speak for everyone....this was a GREAT adventure and WE LOVED THE FERRY!

Next stop....Northern Ireland...Belfast!
I am not sure how such a relaxing day could make one feel so tired so early in the evening, but several opted out of the night walk in Belfast.  I was glad that I was not the only one running on low energy.....but a warm bath in the great European tubs and a good night's sleep would have us up and running tomorrow.
Thank goodness for wonderful kids!

For Here - and Eternity

Can there really be more to see in Scotland...you betcha! Since we are on a literary tour, our next stop was the Robert Burns Museum


Stacked stone walls could be found everywhere. They are not only beautiful, but sturdy.

The Cottage. Robert Burns was born here and lived here has a child. 

I love old graveyards and this one was spectacular.

HEAD stones

Side entrance to the Graveyard. Robert Burns father is resting here. It is also the location that inspired his tale 'Tam O Shanter'

This one is behind the church and is laid out so neatly.

The museum had great exhibits. This was Robert Burns writing desk. 


Interactive games for kids of all ages

This one un-rotated. The greater than life-sized sculpture is on the Poet's Path and is in honor of the poem "To A Mouse."

Above the mouse.
After our tour of the gardens, cottage, graveyard, and museum, we headed to the cafe for lunch and then stopped off at the gift shop. Then, back to the bus for a quick cat nap before we stopped in a little town called Callader. ....for a little snack and stretch break.

Health food store

The girls found the car....'of their dreams.'

More flooding in the countryside. This is a 'car park' ....a parking lot.

View from Callader into the Trossachs 

more views from Callader

The day held something for everyone. I particularly love the photo opportunities so I just loved the old church and the graveyard. I did not love it for the spooky stories and poems that came from Burns imagination, but for the sense of history. I love reading headstones and wondering about the lives of the people and how they lived their lives. It always makes me think about things that really count in life....and in eternity.
We live such busy lives, and so much of what we do really does not count for much in the grand scheme of things. It is a daily challenge to choose to do what is truly important. Important, in the eyes of God, not in the minds of men.
They typically are not one and the same.

And...as beautiful as Scotland may be....I miss my own 'purple mountain majesties.'